Lismore

A fine clear day.  Perfect for heading out into Loch Linnhe and around the islands at the North end of Lismore. The start was at a fine lay-by beside the Sound of Shuna - good parking and easy access to the water.  A group of 5 kayakers had just put in when I arrived and set off down toward the marina at the South end of the sound. Didn't see them again until I arrived back -  wonder where they went?   Anyway, I headed straight across the Sound and followed the coast of Shuna to just opposite Castle Shuna. The castle didn't seem much to write home about and being surrounded by spruce plantations didn't help.  It was good though to see a couple of people busying themselves on the island farm - and the farmhouse standing proud and in good repair. Apparently the island was put up for sale in 2012 - for £1.85m.

From the calm crystal clear waters at the tip of Shuna I set off for the small islands sitting to the North of Lismore.  The islands are low lieing and occupied by nesting gulls and seals.  In fact the the first island I came to after the 1.5k crossing, a kelp covered rock really, was occupied by a group of seals who despite my efforts to sneak passed, dived into the water en masse, and soon I had their bobbing heads al around me.  Stopping for a short break on Eilean Gainimh I was haranged by the gulls who seemed to be nesting on the island.  Great views all around, right up Loch Linnhe to the NE and down to the Glen Sanda quarry to the SW - the Glencoe mountains visible to the E.

By now dark clouds had gathered to the South of Lismore and it looked as though someone was getting wet somewhere. It was still dry and sunny with me but the previously calm sea was now distinctly choppy and a fair old breeze was blowing up Loch Linnhe.  It didn't take long though to cross over to the islands and skerries around Port Ramsay on Lismore.  Passing to the E of Eliean Ramsay, I spotted another seal colony on the outer skerries - this time they stayed put as I headed towards the peninsula at the S end of Port Ramsay bay.

The green ridge, Glas Dhrium, on the peninsula had some visible remains of lime workings - a lime kiln and a couple of ruined cottages.  Lismore was the centre of a substantial lime industry over a hunded years ago with coal for the kilns being brought in from Glasgow by boats that returned full of lime.  I would see more lime workings later near Port Ramsay village and on Eilean nan Caorach. 

On my way N I picked my way through the islands of Port Ramsay to the northern tip of Lismore, pausing before crossing the channel to allow the fast 'worker' ferry from Glen Sanda quarry to pass.  Quickly crossing the tidal stream, which did it's best to try a push me round the 'wrong' side of Eilean nan Caorach, I paused to have a look at the lime workings on the island. Substantial, with a large lime kiln and a couple of the old cottages still roofed and in good repair.

Another quick channel crossing took me to Castle Stalker and from there it was back up the coast to the car.   All in all a great day - great views and weather and calm seas.

Garmin details and GPX file: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/185927903

Loch Etive - Sea Kayak

Headed for Loch Etive as I thought it would be a bit more sheltered than the open sea. In the event a strong NE wind was blowing down the loch making the journey up slower than anticipated. Put in was at Bonawe quarries with scenery for the first mile or so affected by quarry working along the north coast of the loch.

 A good number of fishermen around here though, some fishing from what looked like the floating hull of an old steamer with a portacabin dropped on top. I followed the North coast of the loch up passed a large number of mussel farms.  All of them seemed to be out of operation as there were no ropes hanging from them just a series of large plastic floats links by horizontal ropes.  This apparently is due to a different and inferior strain of mussels colonising the farms throughout the loch - all the farm owners have agreed to keep their farms dormant in an effort to eliminate the new strain. The scenery really opened up as I crossed the widest part of the loch with Ben Cruachan over my right shoulder and the Glen Etive hills, including the conical Ben Starav, dead ahead - beautiful.

As the loch narrows again, just at Rubha Bharr there is a lovely sandy beach and camping spot.  From here the north shore is covered in a mature deciduous woodland with the odd house hidden in the trees.

 Just after an old stone pier I turned and made for the south shore which I would follow back down towards the Bonawe narrows.  At first this side of the loch was more open and shallow with sandy bays and the odd rocky island before becoming wooded closer to the narrows.  I paused at one of the islets - one that I'd stopped at over 25 years ago on  kayak trip to the head of the loch - which was followed by a run over the hills and a bike back to Taynuilt from Victoria bridge.  I still recognised the spot where we'd 'parked' the kayaks amongst the rocks and seaweed and remembered the presence of seals in the area.  Looking around, sure enough, there was one tailing me yet again.

Weather:  Overcast, windy but dry

Wildlife:  A mink on the north shore near camus na Cuirte; seals (2) on small skerries on the north coast near Rubha Bharr; seals on the skerries near Inverliver Bay (south coast)

Garmin details and GPX file: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/185927939

Ardmucknish Bay

It was the Queen's diamond jubilee weekend with two days public holiday, and we were up at North Ledaig caravan park near Connel. From the caravan we had a fantastic view across Ardmucknish Bay to Mull and Moidart  and,  more to the point, only about a hundred yards or so to the shingle beach.  So when the first morning broke calm and clear I was quickly on the water and heading over towards Dunstaffnage.

The Bay was shallow, with the bottom clearly visible until the crossing to Eilean Mor.  This is the entrance to Loch Etive and there was a strong flood out of the loch that quickly took me over to the island. From there to the peninsula that houses Dunstaffnage Castle was a short hop.  The castle was surrounded by trees so there was not a lot I could see but at the first bay (Camas Rubha na Liathaig) up the coast the new college being built at Dunstaffnage came into view, a large rather dominating structure.  The coast from there towards Oban was  made up of small rocky outcrops and grassy slopes with a large fish farm just offshore.  Ganavan came into view, unexpectedly revealing modern flats and housing rather than the expected caravan and camping park.  It's a nice spot and I'm sure the houses brought in a lot more money that the campsite ever would.  The houses though aren't too intrusive and well laid out.

After a short stop and given time constraints I made back rather than going the extra mile to Oban - pity.  On the way back I took the passage at Eilean Mor into Dunstaffnage Bay and round the other side of the island.

The tide had turned and water was flooding into Loch Etive - I was surprised to see on the Garmin trace of my route that I'd taken a sharp deviation upstream as I hit the current.  Not something I'd been aware off.  Wildlife wise there was nothing much to report.  Weather - sunny and calm.

Garmin details and GPX file: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/185927957