Lismore

A fine clear day.  Perfect for heading out into Loch Linnhe and around the islands at the North end of Lismore. The start was at a fine lay-by beside the Sound of Shuna - good parking and easy access to the water.  A group of 5 kayakers had just put in when I arrived and set off down toward the marina at the South end of the sound. Didn't see them again until I arrived back -  wonder where they went?   Anyway, I headed straight across the Sound and followed the coast of Shuna to just opposite Castle Shuna. The castle didn't seem much to write home about and being surrounded by spruce plantations didn't help.  It was good though to see a couple of people busying themselves on the island farm - and the farmhouse standing proud and in good repair. Apparently the island was put up for sale in 2012 - for £1.85m.

From the calm crystal clear waters at the tip of Shuna I set off for the small islands sitting to the North of Lismore.  The islands are low lieing and occupied by nesting gulls and seals.  In fact the the first island I came to after the 1.5k crossing, a kelp covered rock really, was occupied by a group of seals who despite my efforts to sneak passed, dived into the water en masse, and soon I had their bobbing heads al around me.  Stopping for a short break on Eilean Gainimh I was haranged by the gulls who seemed to be nesting on the island.  Great views all around, right up Loch Linnhe to the NE and down to the Glen Sanda quarry to the SW - the Glencoe mountains visible to the E.

By now dark clouds had gathered to the South of Lismore and it looked as though someone was getting wet somewhere. It was still dry and sunny with me but the previously calm sea was now distinctly choppy and a fair old breeze was blowing up Loch Linnhe.  It didn't take long though to cross over to the islands and skerries around Port Ramsay on Lismore.  Passing to the E of Eliean Ramsay, I spotted another seal colony on the outer skerries - this time they stayed put as I headed towards the peninsula at the S end of Port Ramsay bay.

The green ridge, Glas Dhrium, on the peninsula had some visible remains of lime workings - a lime kiln and a couple of ruined cottages.  Lismore was the centre of a substantial lime industry over a hunded years ago with coal for the kilns being brought in from Glasgow by boats that returned full of lime.  I would see more lime workings later near Port Ramsay village and on Eilean nan Caorach. 

On my way N I picked my way through the islands of Port Ramsay to the northern tip of Lismore, pausing before crossing the channel to allow the fast 'worker' ferry from Glen Sanda quarry to pass.  Quickly crossing the tidal stream, which did it's best to try a push me round the 'wrong' side of Eilean nan Caorach, I paused to have a look at the lime workings on the island. Substantial, with a large lime kiln and a couple of the old cottages still roofed and in good repair.

Another quick channel crossing took me to Castle Stalker and from there it was back up the coast to the car.   All in all a great day - great views and weather and calm seas.

Garmin details and GPX file: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/185927903

Loch Etive - Sea Kayak

Headed for Loch Etive as I thought it would be a bit more sheltered than the open sea. In the event a strong NE wind was blowing down the loch making the journey up slower than anticipated. Put in was at Bonawe quarries with scenery for the first mile or so affected by quarry working along the north coast of the loch.

 A good number of fishermen around here though, some fishing from what looked like the floating hull of an old steamer with a portacabin dropped on top. I followed the North coast of the loch up passed a large number of mussel farms.  All of them seemed to be out of operation as there were no ropes hanging from them just a series of large plastic floats links by horizontal ropes.  This apparently is due to a different and inferior strain of mussels colonising the farms throughout the loch - all the farm owners have agreed to keep their farms dormant in an effort to eliminate the new strain. The scenery really opened up as I crossed the widest part of the loch with Ben Cruachan over my right shoulder and the Glen Etive hills, including the conical Ben Starav, dead ahead - beautiful.

As the loch narrows again, just at Rubha Bharr there is a lovely sandy beach and camping spot.  From here the north shore is covered in a mature deciduous woodland with the odd house hidden in the trees.

 Just after an old stone pier I turned and made for the south shore which I would follow back down towards the Bonawe narrows.  At first this side of the loch was more open and shallow with sandy bays and the odd rocky island before becoming wooded closer to the narrows.  I paused at one of the islets - one that I'd stopped at over 25 years ago on  kayak trip to the head of the loch - which was followed by a run over the hills and a bike back to Taynuilt from Victoria bridge.  I still recognised the spot where we'd 'parked' the kayaks amongst the rocks and seaweed and remembered the presence of seals in the area.  Looking around, sure enough, there was one tailing me yet again.

Weather:  Overcast, windy but dry

Wildlife:  A mink on the north shore near camus na Cuirte; seals (2) on small skerries on the north coast near Rubha Bharr; seals on the skerries near Inverliver Bay (south coast)

Garmin details and GPX file: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/185927939

Ardmucknish Bay

It was the Queen's diamond jubilee weekend with two days public holiday, and we were up at North Ledaig caravan park near Connel. From the caravan we had a fantastic view across Ardmucknish Bay to Mull and Moidart  and,  more to the point, only about a hundred yards or so to the shingle beach.  So when the first morning broke calm and clear I was quickly on the water and heading over towards Dunstaffnage.

The Bay was shallow, with the bottom clearly visible until the crossing to Eilean Mor.  This is the entrance to Loch Etive and there was a strong flood out of the loch that quickly took me over to the island. From there to the peninsula that houses Dunstaffnage Castle was a short hop.  The castle was surrounded by trees so there was not a lot I could see but at the first bay (Camas Rubha na Liathaig) up the coast the new college being built at Dunstaffnage came into view, a large rather dominating structure.  The coast from there towards Oban was  made up of small rocky outcrops and grassy slopes with a large fish farm just offshore.  Ganavan came into view, unexpectedly revealing modern flats and housing rather than the expected caravan and camping park.  It's a nice spot and I'm sure the houses brought in a lot more money that the campsite ever would.  The houses though aren't too intrusive and well laid out.

After a short stop and given time constraints I made back rather than going the extra mile to Oban - pity.  On the way back I took the passage at Eilean Mor into Dunstaffnage Bay and round the other side of the island.

The tide had turned and water was flooding into Loch Etive - I was surprised to see on the Garmin trace of my route that I'd taken a sharp deviation upstream as I hit the current.  Not something I'd been aware off.  Wildlife wise there was nothing much to report.  Weather - sunny and calm.

Garmin details and GPX file: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/185927957

Loch Lomond - Short Kayak

At last, a day without wind, heavy rain or snow.  No sunny blue skies or crispy frost though, rather a monochrome haze  - at least it was calm, perfectly calm.  I've had my new sea kayak ( P&H Scorpio) for about two months now and haven't til today had the opportunity to to try it out, so today had to be the day.  Heads of Ayr or Loch Lomond? Had to be Loch Lomond -  thought it best to go inland and tide free for my first outing.  I made for Milarrochy Bay on the East side of the loch, just North of Balmaha with the intent of doing a short trip around Inchcailloch .  ..... and that's what I did.

 Four miles of perfectly calm water, great for getting a feel for the kayak.  It felt different initially, more different than I had expected, but fast and responsive.  I was soon wizzing along enjoying the surroundings. Plenty of other folk were also taking the opportunity to get out on the water - at least three other groups in sea kayaks.  Not a great day for photos but here are a few to give you a feel for the atmosphere.

Cairn Table run

Cold, snow, mud, wind etc - a dash up and down Cairn Table near Muirkirk was the our first serious attempt at training for the Celtman triathlon in June.  Going wasn't too bad until near the summit where the snow depth reduced us to a walk - visibility was also pretty poor, so the compass came in handy.  Well done Billy - a great start to your hill running career.  Here are the two stoogies at the summit.

Loch Hourn and Barrisdale

I'd had the weekend at the end of October penciled in for a trip up North for a wee while - given that Linda was going to be away in York with her pals.  My original plan was to stay in Glen Nevis hostel on Friday night and then to make for Loch Morar on Saturday for a paddle, camping out either at the head of the loch near Oban Bothy or, after a short portage, on the shores of Loch Nevis near Tarbet.  Everything went according to plan until I arrived at Loch Morar.  The forecast gale force winds and heavy rain had turned the loch into a maestrom.  Looking for a more relaxed paddle I turned to my map.  The winds were from the South so Loch Hourn on the northern edge of Knoydart looked like it might offer more favourable conditions - only 20 miles from where I was but by road a trip of over 60 miles, including 21 on the narrow road from Loch Garry to Kinloch Hourn.  It was well worth it. The head of the loch was calm, the water inviting.

I set off at the end of the ebb tide with Barrisdale in mind as an overnight stop. Although relatively calm (most of the time) I was hit by a steady stream of squalls that drenched me and regularly brought me to a standstill - nevertheless it was a great wee paddle of about 2 hours down to Barrisdale.  No difficulty at the narrows at Caolas Mor although the tide had by now turned.  The main problem was getting far enough into Barrisdale Bay to avoid a long kayak haul.  Managed to get to within about 200 m of the North shore of the bay before I had to get out and drag - by now the tide was flooding back in and by the time I'd fitted the kayak wheels I was back in shin depth water!.  I headed along the track looking for a spot to camp and also for the bothy that I'd read was in the vicinity.  Just after Barrisdale House I bumped into the gamekeeper (the only permanent resident of the bay area) and he pointed out the bothy - about 100m passed his house and about 1 km from the shore.  Given that  the wind and rain by now were building up again a night in the bothy sounded a better option than the tent.  It's a posh wee bothy with electricity, a toilet and running water!  No other residents there so I enjoyed a quiet night with a book (Kindle!) and a bottle of red.

On looking out next morning I was greeted by a calm, dry day and a group of stags - although during the night a storm had raged blowing my kayak across the track.  I set off on the return trip at high tide, making it an easier haul to the water's edge, but a paddle all the way to the head of the loch in an ever strengthening ebb tide.  The flow at Caolas Mor was certainly building up but I sneaked around the north shore and only had around 50m to paddle into the teeth of it.  If it had been a problem it would have been easy enough to haul over the spit of land at the narrows.  The rest of the trip was a lovely calm paddle up the loch taking about an hour longer than the way out given the direction of the tide.  Overall a great loch to paddle - narrow, enclosed, spectacular mountains, plenty of wildlife and glorious isolation.  I'll certainly be back.

Interesting facts?  No road in or out of Barrisdale - sea or foot is the only way in -  and no roads along either shoreline.   All the cottages along the loch appeared to be in good condition - probably used as holiday homes.  Loch Hourn = 'Loch Hell' - see wikipedia.  Barrisdale - spelt with two 'r's on the OS map and one inside the bothy   Just in case you're bothered - check out this paper (extract below)!

Wildlife? Herons galore, one about every 200 metres.  One seal on the way out at Eilean Mhogh-sgeir and  about ten of them on the way back about half a km east of the island.  (resting on a rock on the North shore until they all jumped in for a nosey as I passed by).  At the cottages east of Caolas Mor I found a John Dory lying on the surface, barely alive.  ....and of course the stags in Barrisdale and another group at the side of the road at Loch Quoich.

More photos on Picasa.



Barrisdale, dale of Barri (or: dale of Barre) A Norse name, like Arnisdale means ‘dale of Arne’. Real West Coast people prefer the spelling with double r , as the maps’ll have it, because of the way older people (i.e. the native Gaelic speakers) pronounce(d) it – e.g. the grandmother of Iain Warren, stalker of the Barrisdale estate at the time we write this. Peter MacRae as well is of the opinion that this is the correct spelling. We must note, however, that Barisdale with a single r is the habitual spelling of present day estate owners, and thus it is the form in which it will often appear in public, as on signs, letterheads etc.  

Loch Leven and Eilean Munde

It was the Glasgow September weekend and we made for Bunree Caravan site on the banks of Loch Linnhe, just a few hundred yards from the Corran narrows.  Last time we were here it rained non stop ......and this time, well, it did more or less the same.  Maybe just a wee bit drier.

I had hoped to get some kayaking in on the loch but the winds put paid to that.  Instead I headed for the more sheltered waters of Loch Leven for a short paddle from the North shore over to Eilean Munde, the River Coe and back via Aird Eachainn.

Starting out it was fairly calm then, wham, the full force of a squall heading up the loch hit me.  I took the opportunity to take shelter on the island and do a bit of exploring.  The island is effectively one big graveyard being the burial ground of the Stewarts of Ballachulish, the MacDonalds of Glencoe and the Camerons of Callart - it also contains the ivy covered ruins of St Munn's church.

The slate headstones sticking up through the long grass, some on raised platforms, gives the island a really eerie feeling - particularly in the pouring rain.

The rest of the trip was a pleasant paddle on now perfectly calm water with great views of the sun setting over the Ardgour hills!  Oh, and plenty wildlife about including seals and herons around the islands.