Longa Island

Good weather was predicted and Linda was keen to get back out onto the water - a trip along Sands beach was the order of the day. There was a breeze from the NW as we set off from the Sands Campsite slipway planning to make our way along the beach to the old fishing station.

Great views, warm sunshine and small waves coming through Caolas Beag - and gannets off Lunga plunging into the sea. After a short stop at the fishing station we made our way back, doing it in about half the time it took to get there due to the tailwind.

Given the calm conditions and after leaving Linda back at the slipway I decided to have a crack at circumnavigating Longa Island.  Most days I'd looked over to the island the N/NW wind had been creating quite a bit of swell and smashing into the N shore.  Today I hoped that the more exposed far end of the island would have light seas - the only way to find out was to go there! The crossing was relatively calm and the waters at the E end were dead smooth making it easy to look into the kelp forests and watch the numerous small fish that they contained.  The calm conditions continued along the N shore although a slight swell did start to develop closer to the W turning point.  Earlier in the day I'd spotted a nuclear sub making its way up the far side of Longa into the Minch, half way along the N coast I spotted it again - this time coming back down.  It was fairly rattling along and soon passed well to the W of the island as I turned the corner to make my way down the W side of the island.  Here I also met a couple of like minded souls, kayakers going round the island in the opposite direction.  Seas were now a bit more confused due to the swell but the NW wind was picking up again and soon pushed me round the corner onto the S coast.  A great feeling of open seas at this point with views up the coast to Rua Rheid, across the Minch to the Shiants and Harris, to Skye and Rona and southwards to Redpoint and Applecross.  So far the coast had been made up of low cliffs and rocky outcrops  - all fairly dark and uninviting.  The S coast although similarly cliff based and indented was more welcoming with white barnacle covered rocks. I suppose that the sun was shining on this coast so it was going to look brighter! There did seem to be more birdlife though and as I turned onto the S coast I encountered a wildlife boat - they seemed to be looking at the birds nesting on the cliffs. Difficult to identify them but one flew passed, all black and showing a white patch on its wing - black guillemots?

I stopped at the boulder beach of Eag Mhor. Longa at this point is nearly cut in two and a short walk over low heath takes you to a similar bay on the N coast, Camas na Rainich.  I went as far as the mid point where I has fantastic views over both the N and S bays - the local gull population didn't seem too chuffed and kicked up a bit of a noise over the crags on either side.  Back on the water I explored the nooks and crannies along the length of the coast.  In doing this I managed to upset another gull. A black backed gull had been watching me from a rock, as I turned into a sheltered corner after the rock I spotted three young gulls in the water - at this the adult gull took off and proceeeded to repeatedly dive bomb me.   Later at Stron na Caillich I passed through a colony of shags - or were they cormorants? Views from here up into Garloch and across to the Torridon mountains were superb.

When I got back to the E end of the island the wind had picked up and there was a bit of a fetch developing in Caolas Beag. Pushed by the wind and waves I made rapid progess back to the slipway at Sands, spotting Linda on the beach when I was half way across.
Plenty bird life but no action in the water, not even a seal. Well, we did see a seal just off Sands beach before we set off but I would have expected a few more around Longa! I'd also spoken to a few folks who had mentioned recent sightings of porpoises and dolphins off Longa - not in luck today though.

Loch Gairloch and Eilean Horrisdale Kayak

The map calls it Loch Gairloch so that's what I'll call it - even though the double 'loch' seems unnecessary.  Setting off from Sands slipway I followed the coast around to the head of the loch, stopping at the golden sandy beach at the golf course for a wee rest.  I'd been along the N shore several times before and was well used to the low crags and rocky coastline - pleasant enough.  From here the coast increases in interest with low cliff plunging directly into the sea and lots to gaze at in the deep seaweed filled waters.  After rounding the An Ard peninsula I made straight for Rubha nan Eanntag, cutting out Gairloch Pier and Loch Kerry, where the 'glass bottomed' tour boat was pottering about under the crags.  From there  I rounded Eilean an t-Sabhail at the mouth of Loch Shieldaig.  A nice wee corner this with wooded shores and craggy coasts - the island itself hosted a tern colony, with its occupants intent on keeping the marauding gulls at bay. Closely following the shore from here under the low crags and rocks I made my way to Eilean Horrisdale through the narrows at Na Dunain.  The coast along here looked like prime otter and seal territory and I kept my eyes peeled for them all the way.  Apart from a few herons and the other usual birdlife nothing was showing.

I stopped on the island close to Tigh Ghobain with a good view cross to the busy bay at Badachro.  I had my camera ready when I heard russling in the bracken nearly, after a few minutes of moving bracken a troop of geese emerged into the foreshore.  Rounding the W coast of the island views over to Longa and along towards Port Henderson opened up.

 The sea was calm so I pottered about the low rounded coastal rocks and inlets until Camas Ruadh where I cut across to the small rocky islet of Glas Eilean about a km away.  This was gull city and most of the population made their presence known as I approached. From there another km,  and a seal encounter, took me to Gairloch beach again for a short stop before making my way along the N shore of the loch back to  Sands slipway - where I had the pleasant surprise of seeing Linda on the beach, perfect timing!

Weather: A nice day with a light wind from the NW.

Wildlife: Gulls, terns, geese (type?), herons, seal (type?)

Red Point, Torridon

A leisurely walk around Red Point peninsula.

There is a good car park at the end of the road that passes through Badachro and Port Henderson.  From there a signposted path passes Red Point farm to the South beach.  From the beach the path continues along the coast to the old Craig Youth Hostel, Lower Diabeg and eventually Torridon village.

There is an old fishing station  at the S end of the beach.  It looked as though one of the building had suffered from fire and in another some lobster fishing gear and cabling was stored.

At the N end of the beach there was a boat winch complete with boat - all in working order.  I saw three winches still positioned along  the route -  this one was the only one in working order, the other two looking rather rusted and forlorn.   The other two were at the South beach fishing station and on the southern shore of the North beach.

There is a good path that follows the coast between the two beaches - all pretty level.  Red Point itself is not particularly high but the rocky coast and wide ranging views across to Applecross and Skye are worth the effort.

Route details here.

Upper Loch Torridon

High tide and an easy put in at Torridon village was followed by a diagonal route across the loch in glassy seas.

The surrounding mountains reflected clearly in the water and a couple of seals followed me for a wee while.  The combination of calm seas and reflections somehow made it harder to stay balanced  - I think I was struggling to see the horizon and kept leaning to one side. After just over a mile and a half I arrived at the south shore at Stron an Dubh-aird.  From there I followed the south shore cutting across the mouths of the various bays (Obs).

By now the glassy sea had gone and there was a wind blowing down the loch from the West causing small waves.  Although the main road runs fairly close to the loch it wasn't visible until Ob Mheallaidh.  The coast was fairly low with the odd rocky outcrop, fish farm and house, behind and to the right was the grandeur of the Ben Alligin and Liathach whilst ahead was the low promontory that nearly closes off the loch at the narrows leading to Loch Shieldaig.

The plan had been to paddle across the narrows, current permitting, and make my way back by the north shore.  After a short rest stop I made my way along the coast of the promontory but as I reached Camas an Leim near to the tip the wind reached such a strength that I was hardly moving forward.  After ten minutes at less than one mile per hour I'd had enough, although tempted to try and cut across to the north shore at that point I decided to simply go with the wind and let it blow me back along the south shore.

The waves were bigger now and I fairly rattled along - that is until I was half way along the loch when I suddenly had wind in my face again. This seemed to be comimg down from Coire Mhic Nobuil between Ben Alligin and Liathach. This resulted in confused sea for a spell before the new NE wind started to dominate.  Not wishing to continue skipping along the tops of the waves now firmly coming from the NE I turned into them and made for the north shore, arriving just East of Torridon House.  In the lee of the mountains I was back to calm clear seas and enjoyed the short trip back to Torridon Village through mussel and seaweed covered rocks, small fish darting around the shallows and the odd bigger one jumping.

Gairloch - Lochs Kerry and Shieldaig

We are up at Big Sand near Gairloch for Summer holidays.   Since arriving a couple of days ago we've had a strong northerly wind, a bit of rain and generally dreich weather so we haven't really been inspired to get out.   Today broke dry and sunny, although still with a strong northerly wind.  Linda was up for a kayak so we made for the pier in Gairloch hoping that the bays there would be fairly sheltered. Calm enough at the pier but the wind was creating some decent waves further out.  We kept close to the shore and made for Loch Kerry.  As we left the harbour bay Linda found the left turn towards the loch a bit problematic and propelled by the following wind she proceeded straight on.  After a wee loop in the shelter of the pier wall we managed to turn into Loch Kerry.

Calm seas and pine trees down to the pink rocked water's edge made for pleasant paddling.   We followed the coast along to the entrance to Loch Shieldaig where the wind was picking up and blowing waves straight into the loch. 

We should have turned left into the loch but again Linda's left turn didn't work and we continued straight on into choppy seas.  We rafted up for a wee while but the wind simply kept blowing us further out into the bay.  We separated and all of a sudden Linda found her left turn. Pushed on by a following sea she was rattling into Loch Shieldaig, intent on landfall.

 As we'd previously agreed Linda beached near the road at the Shieldaig Hotel and I then made back for the car.  The wind had picked up and I encountered some decent sized waves as well as strong gusts of wind.  Cutting a few corners I was back at the car in 40 minutes and with Linda in under an hour.  Rest and recovery was at the Badachro Inn.

Map and Garmin trace.